The Frugal Foodie: HK Star

If you like 'fish and chips', one of the only redeeming dishes to have emerged from English cuisine, than you will love the salt and pepper cod (or shrimp) at HK Star on Jones and Spring Mountain. HK Star is a Chinese seafood restaurant with a caffeteria-like feel tucked inconspicuously behind the more well known China Mama's. Though the ambience and several of their dishes leave something to be desired, there are some redeeming items on the menu.

Two such gems include the aforementioned 'salt and pepper cod' ($6.95 lunch, $9.95 dinner) and 'salt and pepper shrimp' ($6.95 lunch, $11.95 dinner). Both are lightly battered and deep fried, then tossed with hot chilies and crispy garlic bits. The 'salt' description rings true as well, though they have successfully managed to not go overboard with it. I couldn't pick a favorite between the two options, as the cod is flaky and moist and the shrimp are plump and snappy. These are certainly the best two items on the menu, and you won't miss the 'chips' at all.

The sauteed vegetables ($5.95 lunch, $7.95 dinner) come with a nice variety of mushrooms, one of which is kind of chewy and sponge like. After a google search I think I can call it 'snow fungus,' though I can't be entirely sure. Pass on the Kung Pao cod ($9.95) as the only flavors emerging from the blonde sauce come from the peanuts and MSG.

The scene is a hurried and the staff are not entirely friendly, but for the prices of those fried morsels I'm willing to tolerate a less than stellar overall experience. Come in with low expectations (with the exception of the salt and pepper selections) and you will leave satisfied.

Today's Food Ratings:

Salt and Pepper Cod: 9.5

Salt and Pepper Shrimp: 9.5

Sauteed Vegetables: 7.5

Kung Pao Cod: 5.5

Would I go back?: OH MY COD, YES, BUT NOT WITH ANYONE WHO FAVORS AMBIENCE AND SERVICE OVER FOOD (you know who you are).

HK Star

3400 S. Jones #15

Las Vegas, NV 89146

open 11AM to midnight every day

pictured above: salt and pepper shrimp